Project LooM
Chanderi Glossary Particulars

How to gauge the quality of a Chanderi saree?

How do you gauge the quality of a Chanderi saree? One way is through the quality of the buttis. Are they simple or complicated? Are they big or small (small is generally harder to do, unless it is a simple design). Below are some buttis that will explain this process. Thank you, Aswin Gopilal of Gopilal & Sons, Chanderi for explaining the process. Thank you, Dikshita Pant of Taneira for enhancing the explanation.

Eknaliya buttis are a single thread of extra weft, then a single ground weft, then a single thread of extra weft and so on. Because the weave is very tight, the motif is enhanced. Plus, it is made from a single thread which is hard.

Donaliya is easier than an eknaliya. It is a single extra weft, two ground wefts, then a single extra weft, and so on. The butti is not packed as tight. The same butti will take half the amount of time in a donaliya as compared to an eknaliya.

Do Chashme is a reversible saree. The border is a reversible border made with a double dobby design. The design is woven on both sides. It was traditionally woven for Gwalior royalty who wore the saree folded in between the legs, like a kache. So when it was tucked in the back (like a Maharashtrian navvari or a South Indian kache), the back of the border was just as beautiful. Like we said, the border is finished on both sides.

Mehndi lage haath: in which the hands of a bride with henna are woven into the saree

Sada Suhagan: in which these words are woven into the saree in Hindi.

Doli baraat: gifted to the bride to be.

Rani haar: depiction of the neckpiece in the saree

Related posts

Chanderi: Introduction

Shoba Narayan

The poem that gave jamdanis the phrase “woven air.”

Shoba Narayan

Making a Chanderi Butti

Shoba Narayan

Leave a Comment

This website uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience on our website. I Agree More Info

Subscribe To Our Newsletter

Subscribe To Our Newsletter

Join our mailing list to receive the latest news and updates from the Project LooM team.

You have Successfully Subscribed!